…by Ginger Dingus… 
Yahoo! I’m soaring like an eagle over an alarmingly deep gorge in Canada’s rugged Rocky Mountains, summoning the courage to flip upside-down on the zipline and let it all hang out. That night, I’m indulging my taste buds at a hip mountain bistro.
The next morning, I’m looking for black bears in the forest and snapping photos of cubs perched on tree limbs.
For my grand finale, I dress in full leather gear and hop on a Harley. Just call me “Biker Chick.”
Who says train travel is boring?
OK. All my adrenalin rushes didn’t happen on the train. They did happen during a train trip, one linking western Canada’s adventure destinations together the way a cruise ship links ports. You could call my three-day rail journey from Vancouver to Jasper a cruise on land.
The adventure began the moment my companion and I boarded the Whistler Sea to Sky Climb in North Vancouver, British Columbia and traded fast-paced city life for the laid-back mountain resort of Whistler, site of the 2010 Winter Olympics. The transition via train took a mere three hours, traveling along one of the planet’s most scenic stretches of railroad track. Edging along the shoreline of Howe Sound, a striking fjord flanked by fir-covered cliffs and splashed by tumbling waterfalls, it was obvious why this is called the “sea to sky” run.
The Whistler Sea to Sky Climb offers two classes of service. Passengers in Whistler Classic enjoy waterfront views from coach seats. Those riding in Whistler Dome are surrounded by a glass ceiling while enjoying their breakfasts of omelets. Did I mention the welcome aboard mimosas?
Our train pulled into the spotless Whistler station around noon, leaving the afternoon free for a genuine Rocky Mountain high. It’s amazing how different the forest and creeks look when you’re dangling from a zipline. Ziptrek Ecotours’ crisscrossing network of steel ziplines soars up to 200 feet above the canyon floor. We tested our resolve on the bunny wire before zipping down five progressively longer and higher cables. As a bonus, our guides gave us an informative nature tour.
We celebrated our high-wire stunts with dinner and wine pairing at the Bearfoot Bistro. The dinner was exquisite, but every head in the place turned when Nitro Man showed up. With the help of smoldering wisps of liquid nitrogen, he deftly turned liquid cream into vanilla ice cream.
Early the next morning, we returned to the station, this time to board the Rocky Mountaineer and experience the Rainforest to Goldrush route. The two day, 642-mile trip between Whistler and Jasper, Alberta was introduced in 2006.
We kicked back in the GoldLeaf dome’s comfy seats, sipped mimosas and watched the world roll by through seat-to-ceiling glass. Then the attendants, three charming young women, called us downstairs to breakfast. We feasted on scrambled eggs with smoked salmon and eggs Benedict. Lunch menus offered choices of aged Canadian top sirloin, tiger prawns or wild Pacific salmon, all made-to-order.
Only the spectacular Rockies scenery could top such dining delights. Throughout the Rainforest to Goldrush trip, views alternate between lakeside, riverfront, forest and mountain peaks. Long stretches of the track run beside the fast-flowing Fraser River, named for the early 1800s explorer Simon Fraser. When the train rolls through the Rocky Mountain Trench, the Rockies jut up on one side, and the Columbia Mountains loom on the other.
“Bear! On the left. In the tree.” As if stunning vistas weren’t enough, a British passenger started a game of “Who can spot the most bears?” She was shouting and pointing out the window as the train chugged past. I missed that furry critter, but by the end of the trip I had clearly seen five black bears on the ground, one cub in a tree and one grizzly.
Everyone saw the grizzly. It was calmly munching grain spilled on the tracks. The engineer stopped while we grabbed our cameras and raced to the open vestibules and rear platform for photos. Even the train attendants were caught up in the moment. “I’ll remember that bear forever,” one exclaimed.
As the Rocky Mountaineer neared Jasper National Park and the end of the line, we turned our attention to elk, farewell cocktails and snacks.
It was during our overnight stay at the historic Fairmont Jasper Park Lodge that we met Bowen Dolhan and Kevin Keldson of Jasper Motorcycle Tours. Owners of two gleaming Harleys, the two claim to have the first-ever chauffeured motorcycle sidecar tours. Little did we realize one of the best parts of the ride (Kevin drove) was dressing in full black leather gear—jacket, chaps, gloves, red bandana for color and helmet. Looking biker chique was a kick. Though it was a drizzly grey day in Jasper National Park, we got up close to big-eared mule deer and passed plenty of elk. I thought about the train and wondered if that hungry grizzly was back on the track.
Photo Caption: Afternoon Tea in Rocky Mountaineer Whistler Dome Service
If You Go:
The trains: Rocky Mountaineer operates both trains from May through mid-October. Rail-only fare on the Whistler Sea to Sky Climb begins at $135 one-way and $235 round-trip in Whistler Classic. Prices are $235 and $335 in Whistler Dome class. On the Rocky Mountaineer’s two-day Rainforest to Goldrush route, rail-only fare begins at $789 per person, double occupancy in RedLeaf class and $1,589 for GoldLeaf service. GoldLeaf includes dining car meals, snacks and beverages on board and a hotel stay with dinner in Quesnel. Contact Rocky Mountaineer at 800-665-7245. www.rockymountaineer.com.
Activities: In Whistler, Ziptrek Ecotours’ three-hour zipline tour costs about $99 per adult. Phone 866-935-0001 or 604-935-001. www.ziptrek.com. Scenic rides with Jasper Motorcycle Tours begin at about $75 per person for one hour. Call 780-931-6100. www.jaspermotorcycletours.com.
Dining: The Bearfoot Bistro is located in Whistler’s Listel Hotel. Call 604-932-3433. www.bearfootbistro.com
This article first appeared in the November 2010 issue of Northwest Prime Time, the Puget Sound region’s publication celebrating life after 50. For more information, visit www.northwestprimetime.com
